Not that a run-of-the-mill Wellington bottle is anything to sneeze at. And not that Wellington’s been stingy with its affections before, what with the numerous superb Wellington deals they’ve offered here before, not to mention Peter Wellington sharing his wisdom on our blog. (Although his blogging has taken a back seat to more “pressing” matters lately, he’s earned a barrel full of slack-off credit from us.)
But today the relationship ascends to a whole new level. Wellington doesn’t bottle a Reserve very often, busting out the R word only when they can muster up a blend better than their single-varietal Cabs or Merlots. They’ve only bottled Victory six times in 17 years. And one of those times was 2005, when every grape they touched turned to gold.
The 2005 Victory Reserve shows the winery at its most Wellingtonian. Powerful, subtle, complex, and intensely aromatic, it’s the first Victory to include a substantial Petit Verdot element along with the dominant Cabernet Sauvignon and the little splash of Merlot. The finished product has a something-for-everyone thing going on. Your nose gets cassis, mulberry, dark chocolate, licorice, orange peel, violets, cedar, vanilla, and pepper. Your mouth revels in paradox: a rich but not heavy entry, a chewy but not harsh finish.
Now, don’t go overthinking this, agonizing over what it means, wondering where your relationship is going. You and Wellington Vineyards are still just having a good time and if things get more serious, well, you can decide what to do when that time comes. Just take it slow, try to resist popping the 2005 Victory Reserve open right away, and stick it in your cellar until it feels right to make that next move.
2005 Victory Reserve, Sonoma County:
Wellington Vineyards is owned by the father and son team of John and Peter Wellington. John purchased the winery site in 1986. At the time, it consisted of 20 acres of old vines and a few decrepit old fruit and nut trees. Replanting of part of the old vineyard and orchard started in 1988. The winery was completed in time for the 1989 crush. We grow approximately half the grapes we use and purchase the remainder, primarily from small, unique vineyards. The winemakers are Peter Wellington (right) and Lynda Hanson. Both Lynda and Peter did post-graduate study in Enology at U.C. Davis and have experience at other premium wineries.
The estate vineyards consist of 21 acres, 8 of which are 81 to 113 years old. There are 24 different varieties in the old vineyard, with the most common being Zinfandel, Carignan, Alicante Bouschet, Grenache and Syrah. In addition, there are 10 acres of eleven to sixteen year old vines that consist of Merlot, Chardonnay, Marsanne, and Syrah. We grow more Merlot than anything else. Three more acres were replanted in 2001, predominantly to Syrah, Zinfandel and Grenache.
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