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Roshambo Trio

The people at Roshambo Winery like to have a good time. And they don’t particularly care about conforming to some narrow, ossified idea about how a proper winery carries itself. So they give their wineries names like the Rat and Obvious. They put on events like a Willy Wonka costume party and a Drag Brunch and conceptual art shows. They even named the winery after a children’s game: Roshambo is another name for the game also known as rock, paper, scissors, and Roshambo Winery hosts the world’s biggest rock, paper, scissors tournament (the next one is October 6 in Santa Rosa, Sonoma). It’s all in the name of democratizing the appeal of wine, and showing that wine and fun are not mortal enemies.

Problem is, sometimes people get the wrong idea. They look at all the antics and assume that the actual wine must play second tuba to the spectacle. These uncouth upstarts couldn’t possibly produce wine worthy of an educated palate! And besides, if Roshambo convinces the great unwashed to put down their beer cans and pick up glasses of wine, then being a wine snob will lose all its cachet.

Well, let’s hope so. See, as the scion of an esteemed California grape-growing family, Roshambo owner Naomi Johnson Brilliant has the skills to make the Roshambo mission more than just a cynical marketing gimmick. She grew up among grapes on her grandfather Frank Johnson’s vineyard, innocently unaware that those grapes were hotly sought by winemakers, and that Frank Johnson Vineyard was one of the first vineyard-designated appellations. Wine isn’t literally in Naomi’s blood, but we bet the two substances share some striking similarities.

But pedigree is one thing. As Roshambo would be the first to tell you, what really matters is what’s in the bottle. And what’s in this bottle of Roshambo 2005 Rock, Paper, Scissors Merlot is as unpretentious and engaging as a round of rock, paper, scissors. Currant and black cherry cover everything, while mint and coconut cut through the nose, and chocolate and vanilla break through on the palate. It likes pizza and pasta, but really, it’s up for whatever.

Despite its guttersnipe name, Roshambo 2005 Carignane “The Rat” managed to score Double Gold Best of Class Winner at the 2006 Sonoma County Fair. While your typical wine rat won’t recognize the varietal, a few wafts of its big, accessible framboise, smoke, and violet aromas is all the introduction they’ll need. It’s red, but psst: try it lightly chilled. Go on, the Wine Police won’t arrest you.

It’s an American tradition to oak chardonnay, and it’s a wine-snob tradition to turn up one’s nose at it. As you’d expect, Roshambo turns both traditions on their crusty old ears. Roshambo 2004 Chardonnay “Imago” is fermented in nothing but stainless (and flavorless) steel, so you taste the fruit, not the tree. Instead of oaky butter, here we find crisp, tropical flavors of white peach, pineapple, pear, and lemon zest. The “anything but Chardonnay” brigade ignore it to their detriment.

So let the snobs snicker and the scolds scoff. Let the exalted grand poobahs of the grape issue their fatwas against those who violate proper wine decorum. Roshambo’s heard it all before. Although lately, they’re hearing it less and less…

Roshambo Rock, Paper, Scissors 2005 Merlot

Vintage:  2005
Varietal:   100% Merlot
Appellation:  100% Dry Creek Valley
Alcohol:  13.9%
pH:  3.85
Release Date:  pending
Production:  2,141 cases
Wood:  100 pounds New French oak infused

Roshambo The Rat 2005 Carignane

Vintage:  2005
Varietal:  100% Carignane
Appellation: 100% Angeli Vineyard, Alexander Valley  
Alcohol:  14.4%
pH:  3.50
Release Date: 9/30/06
Production: 480 cases
Wood: 100% neutral oak

Roshambo Imago 2004 Chardonnay


VINTAGE: 2004
VARIETAL: Chardonnay
APPELLATION: Sonoma County
ALCOHOL: 13.9%
RELEASE DATE: spring 2005
PRODUCTION: 4000 cases
WOODS USED: never had it, never will.

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